Remote Starters Frequently Asked Questions

No, and this is why: What you're doing during the programming procedure is putting your Ford vehicle into what they call Ford's "3rd Key Programming Mode" which requires 2 separate keys (that have two different anti-theft codes) to enter the programming mode, which, after in this mode, basically programs the system to the vehicle as if it was a 3rd key. So, if you tried it with 1 key twice, it sees the same code twice. If the vehicle doesn't detect a 2nd different key code, it won't enter 3rd key programming mode. This is also why you can't use "cloned" keys for programming, because cloned keys have the same code as your other key. The outcome would be exactly as if you used the same key twice.

No, you can order the Fortin Flashlink 4 module for less than 1/2 the price of a new key (even though it's always good to have a spare key to your vehicle) and use the 1-key D'cryptor computer software to program the system to your vehicle with just your one key.

Sometimes when having a vehicle serviced for anything that required disconnecting the vehicle's battery, it will deactivate an aftermarket remote starter system. Grab your installation manual (or if you misplaced it, email us, and one of our techs will email you back an Adobe PDF. copy). Unplug the small black 4-pin plug from the remote starter module and redo both the "Activation" & "Programming Procedure." This should get it working again.

For security reasons, most automotive dealerships or automotive locksmiths, when programming a new key, will erase all the current and past keys from the vehicle's ECM. Then reprogram the current keys and then the new one. Since an aftermarket remote starter programs to a vehicle as if it was a spare key, it gets erased during this process. So, the remote starter has to be separately reprogrammed to the vehicle in exactly the same way it was programmed when originally installed.

You will have to turn your vehicle's auto-lights switch on; if the vehicle is not equipped, then the only way to get the parking lights to come on while the vehicle is running by the remote starter would require 1 to 3 T-tap connections or even cutting a wire in half and running it through a relay. There are several configurations depending on the exact year, make, & model of the vehicle.

What could be the problem is when installing most aftermarket remote starter systems into any 2015 and up Ford F-150s that require plugging into the vehicle's gateway module, the remote starter directly interfaces with the vehicle's ECM which, of course, monitors the vehicle's status. So, if the vehicle's check-engine, abs, or low-fuel light is on, or if the vehicle's battery voltage is too low, the remote starter will not activate. Additionally, the most common problem during installation testing is that the vehicle is not equipped with a factory hood-pin switch. Without one, the remote starter can't detect that the hood is closed, so it won't activate. To check to see if this is the problem, pull your hood release lever, then turn the ignition on and see if the dash cluster indicates that the hood is open. If not, then this is probably the issue. There are 2 ways to fix this situation, either purchase an OEM hood-pin switch and plug it in OR go to the plug where the hood-pin would be (near the hood-release latch) and jumper the 2 wires together found running into the plug.

Since you use your factory keyless entry remotes to activate the system, the range will be the same as the distance that you can currently lock & unlock your vehicle's doors using your factory remotes. If you would like to have more range, you would have to add a separate remote upgrade kit.

It means that the remote starter won't shut down when the driver's door is opened, so you won't have to restart the vehicle with a key every time after you remote start the vehicle. But, for safety and security reasons, if you step on the brake pedal before turning the ignition on, the remote starter will shut down. With Passive (NO) Key Takeover, the engine will automatically shut down when the driver's door is opened, so you will have to restart the vehicle again with your key every time after you remote start it. On some vehicle's, this situation is unavoidable.

Yes, the same way you activated it.

When parking the vehicle, while it's still running, set the climate controls levels on where you need them, then turn the ignition off. Then when you activate the remote starter, it will automatically turn them on where you left them.

Yes, the EVO-ALL can be reflashed up to 8 times max, and the dcryptor option 3 times. But check Fortin's website to confirm that the EVO-ALL is compatible in the way that you need it for the new vehicle.

Yes, the system doesn't affect the vehicle's OBD2 port in any way; you're just using a T-harness adapter that replaces your existing one. You're making 1 input into 2 inputs. 1 for the remote starter and 1 remains for normal use of the OBD2 diagnostic connection.

YES. But even though the RFK411 doesn't provide any extra distance to your factory remotes, you can still use either set of remotes to activate the remote starter.

At the top center on the windshield, behind the rearview mirror. Slightly peel back the left side of the driver's door weather stripping and run the cable for the system's antenna behind the A-pillar cover, then push back the weather stripping into place. Now, run the antenna wire to the right, tucking it slightly behind the headliner with your fingertips. Be careful not to "kink" the wire in any way. Let the cable run out the center of the headliner a few inches, then plug it into the antenna base, peel off the protective cover on the two-way tape on the back of the antenna, and stick it to the windshield (make sure to clean the area of the glass really good first). Done.

Yes, but you'll need the additional Fortin RFK411 remote kit to be able to activate the system.